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BY 4.0 license Open Access Published by De Gruyter February 23, 2016

An Overview of Novel Surfactants for Formulation of Cosmetics with Certain Emphasis on Acidic Active Substances

Eine Übersicht über neuartige Tenside in kosmetischen Formulierungen mit Schwerpunkt auf säureaktive Substanzen
  • Milica Lukic , Ivana Pantelic and Snezana Savic

Abstract

Novel surfactants which are nowadays available for incorporation into various formulations of personal care and cosmetic products are numerous, implying a permanent need for their classification. This overview provides essential information relating to synthesis, basic physicochemical characteristics, application and other relevant data on surfactants currently used in cosmetic products. In the second part of the paper an outline of acidic active substances with significant application in cosmetic products is given, as well as the problems that arise during preparation/manufacture of the containing formulations, accompanied with the review of scientific publications and other available reliable data dealing with the incorporation of these actives in the cosmetic formulations stabilized with novel (mainly natural) surfactants.

Kurzfassung

Neuartige Tenside, die heutzutage verschiedenen Formulierungen von Körperpflegemitteln und Kosmetikprodukten beigemischt werden können, sind zahlreich, was einen ständigen Bedarf an ihre Klassifikation einschließt. Dieser Übersichtsbeitrag liefert grundlegende Informationen in Bezug auf Synthese, physiko-chemische Basischarakteristika, Anwendung und andere relevante Daten dieser Tenside, die gegenwärtig in kosmetischen Produkten eingesetzt werden. Im zweiten Teil des Beitrags wird ein Aufriss über säureaktive Substanzen, die in kosmetischen Produkten maßgeblich verwendet werden, gegeben, sowie über die Probleme, die während der Präparation/Produktion der sie enthaltenen Formulierungen entstehen. Dies wird mit einem Review wissenschaftlicher Publikationen und weiterer zuverlässiger Daten, die die Einarbeitung solcher Aktivsubstanzen in die mit den neuartigen (hauptsächlich natürlichen) Tensiden stabilisierten kosmetischen Formulierungen behandeln, belegt.


*Correspondence address, Dr. Milica Lukic, University of Belgrade – Faculty of Pharmacy, Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, Vojvode Stepe 450, 11 221 Belgrade, Serbia. Tel.: +381113951365, Fax: +381113972840, E-Mail:

Milica Lukic works as research and teaching assistant at the Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology of the University of Belgrade – Faculty of Pharmacy. She holds a PhD in Cosmetology. Her research interest encompasses pre-formulation and formulation of dermocosmetic emulsion systems.

Ivana Pantelic is a PhD graduate of the University of Belgrade – Faculty of Pharmacy, where she works as a research and teaching assistant at the Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology. Her research interest focuses on emulsion systems, especially those stabilized with natural origin excipients.

Snezana Savic is Assistant Professor at the Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology of the University of Belgrade – Faculty of Pharmacy. Her research interest encompasses both the field oh Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, especially focused on skin delivery systems of emulsion type and novel surfactants characterization.


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Received: 2015-09-16
Accepted: 2015-10-28
Published Online: 2016-02-23
Published in Print: 2016-01-20

© 2016, Carl Hanser Publisher, Munich

This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.

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