*Katarzyna Schmidt-Przewoźna1, Monika Urbaniak2, Małgorzata Zimniewska1, Anna Brandys1, Joanna Banach1, Marta Gromek1, Przemysław Mikołajczak1, Mariola Pawlaczyk4, Izabella Krucińska3, Iwona Frydrych3, Agnieszka Komisarczyk3, Agnieszka Cichocka3, Lucyna Herczyńska3, Anna Kowalska3, Małgorzata Muzyczek1, Barbara Romanowska1
Natural and safe dyeing of curing clothing intended for patients with dermatoses
Naturalne i bezpieczne barwienie odzieży leczniczej przeznaczonej dla osób z chorobami skóry
1Department of Innovative Textile Technologies, Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants, Poznań
Director of Institute: Robert Sobków, PhD
2Marko-Kolor Co., Łódź
Members of the Management Board: Wiesław Gajda, Longin Frączkiewicz and Andrzej Katryński
3Department of Material and Commodity Sciences and Textile Metrology, University of Technology, Łódź
Head of Department: Professor Izabella Krucińska, MD, PhD
4Department of Geriatrics and Gerontology, University of Medicinal Science, Poznań
Head of Department: Mariola Pawlaczyk, MD, PhD
Streszczenie
Wstęp. Instytut Włókien Naturalnych i Roślin Zielarskich prowadzi kompleksowe badania związane z zastosowaniem naturalnych barwników do barwienia dzianin i tkanin. Przedstawione wyniki są rezultatem prowadzonych w Instytucie badań związanych z realizacją tematu: Bioaktywna odzież o właściwościach pielęgnacyjno-leczniczych.
Cel pracy. Celem zadania 3 było opracowanie technologii barwienia bawełny organicznej i dzianin ekstraktami uzyskanymi z roślin barwierskich.
Materiał i metody. Ekstrakty roślinne w zależności od zawartości substancji czynnych i ich cennych składników mogą mieć następujące właściwości: lecznicze, łagodzące, zwilżające, przeciwzapalne, regenerujące, przeciwwirusowe, przeciwgrzybicze, przeciwutleniające i chroniące przed promieniowaniem UV. Podczas realizacji projektu przetestowano kilka roślin posiadających te cenne właściwości. Ostatecznie uzyskano ekstrakty z następujących roślin: Marzanna Rubia tinctorium L., Janowiec barwierski Genista tinctoria L., Rezeda Reseda luteola L., Nachyłki barwierskie Coreopsis tinctoria L., Dębianki Quercus infectoria Oliv, Migdałecznik chebułowiec Terminalia chebula L.
Wyniki. W końcowej fazie projektu do wykonania kolekcji odzieży prozdrowotnej wybrano 9 kolorów. Barwienie przeprowadzono w warunkach półprzemysłowych w fabryce Marko-Kolor. Efektem projektu jest przyznany patent.
Wnioski. Uzyskano interesującą gamę kolorów, a przetestowane ekstrakty wykazały właściwości lecznicze.
Summary
Introduction. The Institute of Natural Fibers and Medicinal Plants has been carrying out complex research connected with application of natural dyes on knitted fabrics and fabrics. The paper presents the results of the part of the research conducted at the Institute, related to the Project BIOAKOD – Bioactive curing clothing based on natural fibers.
Aim. The aim of the project’s task 3 was to develop organic cotton and knitted linen dyeing technology using the extracts obtained from plants.
Material and methods. Plant extracts depending on the content of active substances and their precious ingredients they can have the following properties: medicinal, soothing, moistening, anti-inflammatory, regenerative, antiviral, antifungal, antioxidant and protection against UV radiation. Several plants were tested during the project realization. Finally, were obtained the extracts from the following plants: Madder Rubia tinctorium L., Dyer’s greenweed Genista tinctoria L, Weld Reseda luteola L., Dyer's coreopsis Coreopsis tinctoria L., Oak Gall Quercus infectoria Oliv, Chebulic Myrobalan Terminalia chebula L.
Results. In the final phase the 9 colours were chosen. The dyeing was performed in semi-industrial conditions in the factory Marko-Kolor. The registered patent is also the effect of this project grant.
Conclusions. The interesting range of colours was achieved, and tested extracts showed healing properties.
Introduction
The objective of the project was obtaining and using natural dyestuffs for design curing clothes. The studies were based on earlier experimental works of Natural Dyeing Laboratory and Laboratory of Physiological Influence of Textiles on Human Body, Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants in Poznań (1-3).
Recently, there has been revival of the growing interest on the application of natural dyes on natural fiber in developed societies, where a lot of attention is paid to healthy lifestyle, which includes diets, physical activity and also comfort related to clothing.
The use of non-toxic and eco-friendly natural dyes on textiles has become a matter of significant importance for research and healthy life.
The Institute has been carrying out studies on clothing influence on human organism. We feel better in fabrics made of natural raw materials. Additional feature of dyeing the fabrics with dyes of plant origin will increase their attractiveness, comfort of wearing, and will also have effect on human frame of mind. This time the studies were extended to test the dyed fabrics on people with different dermatoses (1).
Currently, there are about two thousand plant species considered as medicinal, which can serve as sources for both pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. They also show moisturizing, softening and soothing properties. They protect skin against sun rays, whiten it and diminish discolourations, stimulate blood circulation in capillaries and are characterized with toning and astringent properties.
Natural dyes and pigments obtained from plants, vegetables, bark of trees are being looked as an eco-solution and eco-friendly dyes. Plant extracts contain tannins, flavonoids, saponins, essential oils, mucilage, vitamins and many other valuable nutritional substances. They have various properties, e.g. medicinal, soothing, caring, and disinfecting. Finally, 20 species of dye plants of afore mentioned properties were selected for the project.
Aim
The main objective of the study was to develop an eco-friendly method of dyeing fabrics and knittings with extracts obtained from plants. More than 50 different plant materials were used for dyeing. Complex studies on the use of natural dyestuffs in textile industry are a completely unique deve-lopment.
Since 2000 studies have been conducted on application of natural dyestuffs in unique collections of fabrics. Experiments made on linen and silk fabrics proved the possibility of obtaining a wide range of colours. In Poland such studies have not been carried out for years and the Natural Dyeing Lab. “Natural Art” is the only centre of the kind.
Further stage of the works included moving from laboratory to semi-industrial scale and implementation of the developed technology at the manufacturing plant Marko-Color co.
Material and methods
Plants
In the study the following plants were used, e.g.: French marigold Tagets species L., Madder Rubia tinctorium L. (fig. 1b), Dyer’s greenweed Genista tinctoria L. (fig. 1b, c), Weld Reseda luteola L., Dyer’s camomile Anthemis tinctoria L., Dyer's coreopsis Coreopsis tinctoria L. (fig. 1a), Coreopsis Coreopsis grandiflora L., Woad Isatis tinctoria L. Indigo Indigofera tinctoria, Logwood and others.
Fig. 1a-c. Coreopsis (Coreopsis tinctoria Nutt) (a), Madder (Rubia tinctorium L.) (b), Dyer’s greenweed (Genista tinctoria L.) (c) – Experimental farm of Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants, Petkowo 2013, 2014
Materials:
– Sample A – knitted linen 100% (fig. 2a),
– Sample B – knitted linen 100%, premordating – gall oak,
– Sample C – knitted linen/4% elastane, premordating – gall oak (fig. 2b),
– Sample D – organic cotton (fig. 2c).
Fig. 2a-c. Knitted linen 100% (a), knitted linen/4% elastane (b), organic cotton (c)
In cooperation with Marko-Kolor Co. manufacturer a palette of colours were selected for which the dyeing processes were to be scaled-up from laboratory to industrial conditions (tab. 1).
Tab. 1. Result of tests woven fabric and knit fabric from BIOAKOD project
| Samples | Mass per unit area (g/m2) | Thread density (No of threads/
10 cm) | Hygroscopicity (%) | Speed of water sorption (s) | Air permeability (mm/s) | Thermal resistance (m2 C/W) | Water vapor resistance (m2 Pa/W) |
| at 65% humidity | at 100% humidity |
| Knit fabric – 100% linen | course | 225 | 73 | 8.7879 | 15.0928 | 292 | 2654 | 0.0340 | 5.0094 |
| wale | 72 |
| Knit fabric – 100% linen after washing | course | 249 | 82 | 9.2793 | 16.3185 | 30 | 1718 | 0.0459 | 5.3773 |
| wale | 75 |
| Knit fabric – linen/elastane | course | 166 | 135 | 7.5264 | 14.6314 | 17 | 1585 | 0.0340 | 4.8276 |
| wale | 114 |
| Knit fabric – linen/elastane after washing | course | 178 | 140 | 8.6974 | 15.4800 | 3 | 1776 | 0.0358 | 4.4259 |
| wale | 114 |
| Fabric – organic cotton | warp | 151 | 338 | 6.9472 | 12.5115 | 10 | 309 | 0.0322 | 3.8816 |
| weft | 209 |
| Fabric – organic cotton after washing | warp | 159 | 213 | 7.9989 | 12.8611 | 4 | 256 | 0.0276 | 3.9986 |
| weft | 333 |
Trials of preliminary treatment of the raw materials for dyeing (stage 1)
The first stage of the task was to develop of a technology for preparing the fabrics and knitting for dyeing. The cotton fabric and linen knitting were treated for obtaining the desired evenness and intensity of dyeing. To achieve this, pretreatment processes were carried out labeled as processes A, B and C.
A. Pre-washing 40°C/30 min:
– Rucogen WBL50 – 0.5 g/l.
B. Pre-washing 95°C/30 min:
– sodium hydroxide 2 g/l,
– Viscavin GVN – 1 g/l.
C. Bleaching 95°C/30 min:
– sodium hydroxide 2 g/l,
– Viscavin GVN – 1 g/l,
– hydrogen peroxide 35% – 5 g/l,
Organoleptic assessment of the dyed materials indicated that the most effective are processes B and C. The knitting prepared with the A recipe appeared to dye in uneven way. Finally, for the further stages of the experiments the B and C methods were selected and acidification with acetic acid. The materials prepared in that way were later pre-treated with plant materials i.e. gall, myrobalan and oak bark in processes labeled as 3A, 3B and 3C.
Pretreatment (stage 2)
Before dyeing three natural materials were selected for mordanting the fabrics and knitting, which materials are characterized with high amounts of tannins. The mordanting materials were: Chebulic Myrobalan (Terminalia chebula Retz), Oak Gall (Quercus infectoria Oliv.) and Oak Bark (Ouercus cortex).
Chebulic Myrobalan (Terminalia chebula Retz) has antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal properties (4, 5). Thanks to the wealth of its ingredients, it is used in making therapeutic infusions for rinsing the mouth, throat, and eyes. Drugs containing Chebulic Myrobalan lower cholesterol levels, regulate metabolism and digestive disorders, are used in the treatment of dysentery, and auxiliary and HIV infections. Terminalia chebula Retz contains 58-60% of tannin compounds, which makes it a valuable dye and mordant. It is the source of yellow color.
Oak Galls (Quercus infectoria Oliv.) contain tannic (6) and gallic acid (7). Gallnuts are used to obtain tannin, which allows for better dyeing of fabrics and is used in tanning. In some galls the compounds (tannins) constitute half, or even more of the substance’s dry matter. The tannin compound is gallotannin, which is an ester of glucose, ellagic and gallic acid. Gallnuts, which are widely used in medicine, usually come from oaks. They have an astringent, sedative, antipyretic and antidiabetic effect, and are widely used in the medical and pharmaceutical industries. Galls give black, navy blue and brown colors (6).
Oak Bark (Ouercus cortex) is one of the most commonly known plant materials used in medicine. It is used in treatment of inflammations of skin, oral mucosa, as astringent agent in skin and mucosa inflammations, skin lesions, frostbite and mild burns. These properties result from the presence of tannins (catechin, epicatechine, gallcatechine), flavonoids, resin substances and mineral salts.
3A. Treatment in Chebulic Myrobalan:
– alum 1.27 g/l
– Chebulic Myrobalan 1%
Cotton fabric 100% and linen knit 100% – amount 530 g
Liquor ratio 1:12
Pre-treatment time (mordating) 90 min
Temp: 80oC (gradient 1oC/min).
3B. Treatment in Oak Galls:
– alum 1.75 g/l
– Oak Gall 0.2%
Liquor ratio 1:15
Cotton fabric 100% and linen knit 100% – amount 660 g
Pre-treatment time (mordating) 90 min
Temp: 80oC (gradient 1oC/min).
3C. Treatment in Oak Bark:
– alum 1.75 g/l
– Oak Bark 0.1%
Liquor ratio 1:15
Cotton fabric 100% and linen knit 100% – amount 660 g
Pre-treatment time (mordating) 90 min
Temp: 80oC (gradient 1oC/min).
Dyeing (stage 3)
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Piśmiennictwo
1. Zimniewska M. Antioxidant activity of fibres originating from traditional varieties of Polish flax plants. Fibres Textil Eastern Eur 2015; 23, 6(114):41-7.
2. Zimniewska M. Krucińska I. The effect of raw material composition of clothes on selected physiological parameters of human organism. J Textil Inst 2010; 101:154-64.
3. Zimniewska M, Kozlowski R. Natural and man – made fibers and their role in creation of physiological state of human body. Molec Cryst Liq Cryst 2004; 418:841-58.
4. Suchalata S, Devi CS. Antioxidant activity of ethanolic extract of Terminalia chebula fruit against isoproterenol – induced oxidative stress in rats. Indian J Biochem Biophys 2005; 42:242-9.
5. Kannan P, Ramadevi SR, Hopper W. Antibacterial activity of Terminalia chebula fruit extract. African J Microbiol Res 2009; 3:180-4.
6. Nagesh L, Sivasamy S, Muralikrishna KS i wsp. Antibacterial potential of gall extract of Quercus infectoria against Enterococcus faecalis – an in vitro. Pharmacogn J 2012; 4(30):47-50.
7. Hwang JK, Kong TW, Baek NI i wsp. Alpha-glycosidase inhibitory activity of hexagalloylglucose from the galls of Quercus infectoria. Planta Med 2000; 66:273-4.
8. Schmidt-Przewoźna K, Brandys A. Utilization of contaminated lands for cultivation of dye producing plant. Bioremed Bioecon 2016; 330-60.
9. Kamucki R, Gardzielewska J, Rybarczyk A. Usefulness of selected methods of colour change. Measurement for pork quality assessment. Czech J Food Sci 2011; 29(3):212-8.
10. Patent submission has been filed under number P 411869. Odzież działająca jak suplement opatrunku w terapii chorób dermatologicznych. (Apparel supplement acting as a dressing for the treatment of dermatological diseases).
