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Designing for circularity: sustainable pathways for Australian fashion small to medium enterprises

Lisa Westover Piller (Department of Fashion, South Metropolitan TAFE–Bentley Campus, Bentley, Australia) (School of Arts and Humanities, Edith Cowan University–Mount Lawley Campus, Mount Lawley, Australia)

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management

ISSN: 1361-2026

Article publication date: 17 May 2022

Issue publication date: 23 March 2023

2568

Abstract

Purpose

Australians consume twice the global average of textiles and are deeply engaged in a linear take/make/waste fashion model. Furthermore the Australian fashion sector has some unique supply chain complications of geographical distances, sparse population and fragmentation in processing and manufacturing. This research aims to examine how Australian fashion small to medium enterprises (SMEs) are overcoming these challenges to run fashion businesses built around core principles of product stewardship (PS) and circularity.

Design/methodology/approach

SMEs make up 88% of the Australian apparel manufacturing sector. This qualitative exploratory study included in-depth interviews with three Australian fashion SMEs engaged in circular design practice, and a focus group of 10 Western Australian fashion advocates of sustainability. Analytic coding and analysis of the data developed eight distinct themes.

Findings

This study examines the barriers to circular economy (CE) that exist in the Australian fashion sector, and maps the practice of Australian SMEs with circular business models in overcoming these barriers. In CE innovation, Australian SMEs may have an advantage over larger fashion companies with more unwieldy structures. Employing design-thinking strategies, Australian SMEs with a foundation of PS and circular purpose are creating new systems of viable closed-loop business models and design processes.

Originality/value

The themes from this research contribute to the limited literature on circular innovation examples that link CE theory with practice in the fashion sector. The model for circularity maps the practice of three SMEs built around core principles of PS and circularity in overcoming the barriers to CE in an Australian context, and may be used as a visual tool in education and understanding.

Keywords

Acknowledgements

The author would like to thank Zoltan Csaki, Stephanie Devine, Courtney Holm and the ten focus group participants for their time, passion and commitment to this research. Their drive, integrity, energy and leadership is a gift to the Australian fashion industry. The author conveys sincere thanks to her supervisor Dr Hanadi Haddad and Edith Cowan University for their support throughout the research and development, especially in such a challenging year of lockdowns and online learning. The author extends a special thank you to Enrico Francis, whose graphic design support helped bring the author’s post-it notes, scribbles and mud maps to life.

Citation

Piller, L.W. (2023), "Designing for circularity: sustainable pathways for Australian fashion small to medium enterprises", Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, Vol. 27 No. 2, pp. 287-310. https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-09-2021-0220

Publisher

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Emerald Publishing Limited

Copyright © 2022, Emerald Publishing Limited

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