Abstract
Recent technologies propose to address the social problems of health, environmental sustainability, and food security by using biological analogues—functional duplicates derived from human and animal tissue. These are not mere substitutes or assistive technologies; rather, they are highly engineered fabrications that self-assemble into tissue as they would in a human or animal body. Human organoids and cultured meat are examples. Significantly, their acceptance and value rely on being understood as ‘the real thing’—only without the ethical problems associated with the uses and treatments of the natural original. They are enacted or disputed as authentic through material and discursive means within existing and emerging assemblages of knowledge practices, governance regimes, economic and political interests, and presumed user expectations. This chapter examines how analogues are made to matter as authentic, and how they disturb social orders and generate new ones in the process. Viewing technologies through the lens of authenticity avoids binaries of natural/technological and benefits/harms and shifts attention from the properties and novelty of technological objects to the processes and logics through which new life forms are created.
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Notes
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Hinterberger (2018) and Svendsen et al. (this volume) discuss similar complexities with humanised animal models (chimeras), showing how the human is enacted through material practices in the lab.
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Estimates are usually given in metric tonnes (1 mT = 1000 kg or 2205 lbs), based on carcass weight, not final product weight. Estimates vary, depending on whether fish or exotic meats are included. The OECD estimates global per capita consumption at 33.8 kg; however, meat consumption varies considerably based on country wealth (2020). Notably, previous estimates forecasted an increase in consumption; however, consumption has decreased by about 2.8% due to production disruptions connected with the pandemic and animal disease outbreaks (FAO 2020, p. 45). Consequently, recent forecasts estimate increased demand for meat alternatives.
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For details, see Arshad et al. (2017). Embryonic stem cells may also be used.
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This raises interesting questions about heritage breeds and terroir, much debated in cuisine discourse. Berkshire pork is more acidic (due to diet and genetics), Wagyu beef is fattier and buttery, and Iberico pork raised on acorns has a prized flavour. I address this elsewhere as a further amplification of what is at stake with notions of the authentic; see also Weiss (2016).
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Survey results are found at https://www.gfi.org/the-naming-of-clean-meat. See also Stephens et al. (2019), and for consumer perceptions, Bryant and Barnett (2018), Marcu et al. (2015) and Verbeke et al. (2015).
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The agreement is found at: https://www.fsis.usda.gov/wps/wcm/connect/0d2d644a-9a65-43c6-944f-ea598aacdec1/Formal-Agreement-FSIS-FDA.pdf?MOD=AJPERES. See also the National Academy of Sciences (2017).
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Ogle (2013) chronicled how meat consumption links multiple histories of homesteading, the railroad and transportation industries, supply chain infrastructures, urbanism, and industrialism since the nineteenth century.
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Acknowledgements
I thank Dorthe Brogård Kristenson, Klaus Hoeyer, Mette Svendsen, and Ayo Wahlberg for helpful exchanges and anonymous reviewers for their comments. I am indebted to Phillip Schneider for research assistance and for creative insights.
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Hogle, L.F. (2022). Enacting Authenticity: Changing Ontologies of Biological Entities. In: Bruun, M.H., et al. The Palgrave Handbook of the Anthropology of Technology. Palgrave Macmillan, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-16-7084-8_28
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