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Quality Certification in the Face of Agricultural Relocalization: Between Peaceful Coexistence and Tension—Analysis Based on Cheese Production in Occitanie (France)

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Brand, Label, and Product Intelligence

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Abstract

This article aims to examine the status of products bearing an official label (‘SIQO’ in French) in food transition, in which the consumption of so-called ‘local’ products is now an unavoidable trend. Despite a situation a priori favorable, the SIQO products seem sometimes irrelevant when they are sold through short supply chains viewed as alternative food networks. The interviews with producers and consumers conducted in two French study areas (Lot and Ariège department) highlight this confrontation between ‘SIQO’ and ‘local’ products: in these two areas, two official labeled products (PDO and PGI cheeses Rocamadour an Tomme des Pyrénées) coexist with unlabeled local products. The results clearly show the existence of two opposite ‘ethics of production’, even if they tend to converge in certain aspects, in particular their territorial anchorage.

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Notes

  1. 1.

    See for example: https://www.capital.fr/entreprises-marches/carrefour-auchan-ou-u-ne-jurent-plus-que-par-le-produit-local-1374068.

  2. 2.

    This includes the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC, Controlled Dénomination of Origin), Label Rouge, Organic Agriculture, Protected Denomination of Origin (PDO) and Protected Geographical Indication (PGI).

  3. 3.

    Locally, one can mention the territorial brands supported by regional and departmental authorities, and increasingly by inter-municipal structures and territorial projects (such as regional and national parks), as well as professional agricultural networks with a touristic vocation (as Bienvenue à la Ferme or Accueil Paysan).

  4. 4.

    According to AGRESTE data, short supply chains (as defined by the Ministry of Agriculture) concerned in 2010 about 1 in 5 farmers and 1 in 2 market gardeners, and represented about 7% of food purchases (Barry, 2012).

  5. 5.

    https://www.amazon.fr/b?ie=UTF8&node=14862936031.

  6. 6.

    Grenelle de l'Environnement in 2009, Loi d'Avenir pour l'agriculture, l'alimentation et la forêt (creating PATs) in 2014; Information report on short supply chains and the relocalization of agricultural and food sectors presented by Brigitte Allain in 2015; Etats Généraux de l'Alimentation in 2017 and then Loi EGALIM in 2018.

  7. 7.

    SIQOs are predominant in the sectors of wine (94% of sales) and fat palmipeds (64%), significant for cheeses (13%) and poultry (10%) and more modest for beef (3%) and fruit and vegetables (1%).

  8. 8.

    Agricultural sector: 76 billion euros excluding tax; agri-food sector: 213 billion euros excluding tax. Source: consolidated data from the French Ministry of Agriculture and Food.

  9. 9.

    Among the most visible French collective initiatives: Bleu Blanc Cœur, Vignerons Engagés, Zéro Résidu de Pesticides.

  10. 10.

    Amendment to the INAO objectives and performance contract relating to the integration of agri-ecology principles into the Signs of Origin and Quality, INAO, 2016 (https://www.inao.gouv.fr/Nos-actualites/Stephane-Le-Foll-et-l-INAO-s-engagent-pour-developper-l-agro-ecologie-dans-les-signes-de-l-origine-et-de-la-qualite).

  11. 11.

    For example, the report on short supply chains and relocation of agricultural and food sectors, drafted by Parliament member Brigitte Allain (2015) includes almost no references to SIQOs, except to mention their economic weight.

  12. 12.

    ‘Quality and sustainable’ products include all SIQO products, fair trade products, and products bearing mentions valorisantes (‘farm-raised’ poultry, HVE) (source: https://agriculture.gouv.fr/les-mesures-de-la-loi-egalim-concernant-la-restauration-collective). SIQO professionals have also expressed their frustration about this subject, denouncing a disavowal of the labels by the Ministry of Agriculture (see: https://www.pleinchamp.com/actualite/produits-labellises-ni-ratio-dans-la-loi-climat-ni-ration-a-la-cantine).

  13. 13.

    https://france3-regions.francetvinfo.fr/occitanie/occitanie-nutri-score-un-classement-alimentaire-difficile-a-avaler-pour-les-produits-regionaux-2106949.html.

  14. 14.

    Valuating Local Products: The Web of Approaches and its Consequences for Agricultural and Rural Development in Midi-Pyrénées. The project partners were members of UMR CNRS LISST (Interdisciplinary Laboratory for Solidarities, Societies, Territories), particularly teams from the Rural Dynamics and Social Anthropology Center, the UMR INRA AGIR (Agri-ecology, Innovations and Territories), and Odycee (Organization, Dynamics of Knowledge, and Innovations in Territories and Sectors).

  15. 15.

    The curd results from the addition of lactic acid bacteria and rennet in milk. It corresponds to the first stage of cheese processing.

  16. 16.

    Etoile du Quercy, Fromagerie du Quercy, Cooperative Les Fermiers du Rocamadour.

  17. 17.

    https://lot.chambre-agriculture.fr/votre-chambre-dagriculture/presentation-du-lot/.

  18. 18.

    Two other groups have been identified: ‘agritourism professionals’ and ‘non-aligned’. With respect to SIQO production, these two groups can be considered as variations of the two previously mentioned.

  19. 19.

    Association for the Development of Agricultural and Rural Employment in the Lot: This structure was created in 2001 with the aim of supporting project leaders from outside the agricultural world, particularly in matters of real estate.

  20. 20.

    Lot Tourisme corresponds to the department’s tourism development agency (formerly the Departmental Tourism Committee), which bears the ‘Esprit Lot’ label.

  21. 21.

    Currently, 60% of the herd on a farm can be provided with hormonal treatments to be bred out of season (dessaisonnement). In addition, 80% of the feed (including concentrates) must come from the PDO zone. The stakeholders are currently considering a change in the specifications: The above criteria are thus under review, as well as the releasing of animals to forage (source: Syndicat du Rocamadour PDO).

  22. 22.

    2 of the 3 enterprises belong to industrial groups: Lactalis and the Société Fromagère du Livradois.

  23. 23.

    The term fruitière refers to the idea of sharing the fruits of cooperative members’ work.

  24. 24.

    Created in 1976, regional labels were granted to French products made in certain regions, recognizing the typical, traditional, and/or representative character of these regions. This system was abandoned with the advent of the European-scale PDO-PGI (source: www.senat.fr).

  25. 25.

    The original PGI area covered Ariège, Pyrénées-Atlantiques, Hautes-Pyrénées, as well as parts of Aude and Haute-Garonne. Its extension aimed to encompass the Pyrenean massifs of the Aude and the Pyrénées-Orientales.

  26. 26.

    Sources: www.irqualim.fr; www.inao.fr.

  27. 27.

    Among the most frequent names: Moulis, Bethmale, Couserans, Pic de la Calabasse, Estive, Rogallais.

  28. 28.

    Source: Chambre d’Agriculture de l’Ariège, AGRESTE 2010 data.

  29. 29.

    The only operator in the department, Les Fromageries Occitanes, collects milk from around 300 producers, of which less than 20 are located in Ariège.

  30. 30.

    Property of the National Federation of PNR, ‘Valeurs Parc’ is a collective mark awarded to products and services that meet certain contractually-based requirements (source: https://www.parcs-naturels-regionaux.fr/).

  31. 31.

    Around 50 ‘eaters’ committed to the cause of local production were surveyed; unsurprisingly, they expressed their confidence in geographical and social proximity with producers, and conversely their questions about and/or ignorance of so-called products of terroir (Fiamor, 2019).

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  1. University of Toulouse, Toulouse, France

    Julien Frayssignes, Anne-Emmanuelle Fiamor, Michaël Pouzenc & Valérie Olivier Salvagnac

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Frayssignes, J., Fiamor, AE., Pouzenc, M., Olivier Salvagnac, V. (2022). Quality Certification in the Face of Agricultural Relocalization: Between Peaceful Coexistence and Tension—Analysis Based on Cheese Production in Occitanie (France). In: Kaswengi, J., Ingarao, A. (eds) Brand, Label, and Product Intelligence. Springer Proceedings in Business and Economics. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-95809-1_1

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