Abstract
The article deals with understanding recent reconsideration of the hierarchy of the French wines. In about fifty years, the AOC label ceased to provide the most favourable economic positions, contrary to certain table wines. How different categories of wines, that the professional and the State contributed to segment in two market in the first half of the twentieth century, could have evolved until calling into question the AOC wine, former institutionalized model of excellence? In order to understand how each market evolved to this conclusion, we provide basic tools for comparing the market under the same grid. Gironde and Languedoc-Roussillon constitute two convenient cases for applying it. The—undesired—incidence of the European instruments of public action on the sectoral evolution is clear. By analysing the effects of the installation of sectoral legislation, then the substantial modification of the European regulations in 1985, we understand how the regulatory change induced the emergence of new collective and economic strategies leading to reconsider AOC wines.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
Change history
30 January 2020
∎∎∎
Notes
- 1.
They have underlined how the French wine sector has gradually combined two sets of economic regulations and institutions , which have been delineated by professional conflicts, and the determining contribution of the State. In line with the “Regulation school”, they adhere to its concepts, and the idea according to which the national institutional regulations (set by public policies) arise from the local confrontations between unions. See Bartoli and Boulet (1989, 1990).
- 2.
By this expression, Pierre Muller underlines that scientists’ thinking is bound to, and bounded by sectoral structuring preceding them. See Muller (2010).
- 3.
At that time, tables wines represented 95% of the Community production (Smith et al. 2007, pp. 80–81).
- 4.
The special issue of the Pôle Sud journal published in 1998, under the direction of William Genieys, includes works conducted by economists, historians and political scientists with expertise in tables wines and European regulations (Genieys 1998). For more recent development, see Garcia-Parpet (2004, 2007).
- 5.
This is what Antoine Bernard de Raymond shows regarding the introduction of the Common Market Organization of the fruit and vegetable markets , by pointing out the change in regional offer: the varieties of apple produced in the orchards are homogenized (in particular through the creation of an official catalogue), while the producers ‘ organizations take part into making them more competitive, by channelling their production and marketing, with a disappearance of the traditional circuits and trade unions. See Bernard de Raymond (2013, pp. 203–221).
- 6.
Indeed, the study of the role of interest groups on public policies has become classical in political science. Three specialized currents have modelled it differently: “pluralists”, for whom the definition of public policies results from a free and fair competition between interest groups, the State being reduced to a mere rubber-stamping party; “corporatists”, underlining the uneven character of the competition between interest groups, the State recognizing only those in conformity with its interests; “neo-corporatists” (or “sectoral corporatists”), focusing on the formulation and the application of specific, sectoral policies. See Hayward (1996), Jobert and Muller (1987), Hassenteufel (1995), and Berger (1981).
- 7.
Respectively, the Languedoc-Roussillon region for table wine , and the Gironde department for AOC wines. See Smith et al. (2007, pp. 64–78).
- 8.
Indeed, since the end of the twentieth century, an interdependence was established between the two shores of the Mediterranean, for blending wines.
- 9.
From 1964 to 1970, however, the “system of supply inherited from the colonial time continues to function”: the French and Algerian governments get along on an annual, limited delivery fixed at 8,760,000 hl in 1965 (Berger and Maurel 1980, p. 90).
- 10.
- 11.
The cooperatives, thanks to their qualitative growth and competences (technology innovations , reorganization of their workshops, selection of the harvests) empower vis-à-vis wine merchants ’ control, and capture added value.
- 12.
In 1968, the majority of the wines with an alcoholic strength of 9 °5–11 °4, and more than 11 °4, is produced in the South of France (CRPEE 1970, p. 70).
- 13.
- 14.
From this moment on, they were set by “quotation regional commissions” (Bardissa 1976, pp. 55–56).
- 15.
The grubbing up premium, for instance, supported the retreat of the vineyard, but the wine growers slowed down its impact by gaining in productivity. The reduction of the production was slower than that of consumption, resulting in an increase in surpluses, and an increased recourse to the mechanisms of storage and distillation (Bartoli and Boulet 1989, p. 314).
- 16.
Langedoc-Roussillon collected 75% of the European subsidies in France (Bernard 1989, p. 64).
- 17.
In 1968, about fifty communes regrouped their lands, approximately 70 in 1970, that is to say 20% of the winegrowing area in Gironde (Roudié 2014, pp. 415–416). The mechanization of the vineyard jointly accompanied the diffusion of “high vines” developped in Cadillac, which covered as soon as 1964 one-third of the vineyard in Gironde (Roudié 2014, pp. 406–407). On the diffusion of oenology, see Anonymous (1965, p. 9).
- 18.
For years, the production of white wines under the generic name “Bordeaux”, in particular, had developed in an overabundant fashion, as it had become “practically a refuge” for wines of lesser quality . Less rewarding, it was also the less organized. See Vincent (1966, p. 5).
- 19.
It felt from 30 to 15% of total departmental volumes between 1970 and 1987 (Aubril 1987, p. 47).
References
Books
Bagnol, J.-B. (2010). Le Midi viticole au Parlement. Edouard Barthe et les députés du vin de l’Hérault (années 1920–1930). Montpellier: Presses Universitaires de la Méditerranée.
Bardissa, J. (1976). Cent ans de guerre du vin. Paris: Tema-éditions.
Bartoli, P., & Boulet, D. (1989). Dynamique et régulation de la sphère agro-alimentaire. L’exemple viticole. vol. 1, Montpellier: INRA.
Berger, A., & Maurel, F. (1980), La viticulture et l’économie du Languedoc du XVIIIe siècle à nos jours. Montpellier: Les éditions du Faubourg.
Berger, S. (1981). Organizing Interests in Western Europe: Pluralism, Corporatism, and the Transformation of Politics. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
Bernard de Raymond, A. (2013). En toute saison. Le marché des fruits et légumes en France. Rennes: Presses Universitaires de Rennes.
Bourdieu, P. (2000). Les structures sociales de l’économie. Paris: Seuil.
Bousiges, T. (1994). Construction de la notion de vin de pays, mémoire pour le DESS de Droit de la vigne et du vin. Marseille: Université de Droit, d’Économie et des Sciences d’Aix-Marseille.
Boussaguet, L., Jacquot, S., & Ravinet, P. (2010). Dictionnaire des politiques publiques, 3rd ed. Paris: Presses de Sciences Po.
Chauvin, P.-M. (2010), Le marché des réputations. Une sociologie du monde des vins de Bordeaux. Bordeaux: Féret.
Clavel, J. (1987). Réussir: les grands vins du Languedoc-Roussillon. Lattes: Coteaux du Languedoc.
Clavel, J., & Baillaud, R. (1985). Histoire et avenir des vins en Languedoc. Toulouse: Privat.
CRPEE. (1970). Constatations des cours des vins de table à la production. I. France. Montpellier: Université de Montpellier.
Fligstein, N. (1990). The Transformation of Corporate Control. Cambridge: Harvard University Press.
Fligstein, N. (2001). The Architecture of Markets: An Economic Sociology of Twenty-First Century Capitalist Societies. Princeton: Princeton University Press.
François, P. (2008). Sociologie des marchés. Paris: Armand Colin.
Garcia-Parpet, M.-F. (2009). Le marché de l’excellence. Les grands crus à l’épreuve de la mondialisation. Paris: Seuil.
Gavignaud-Fontaine, G. (2006). Le Languedoc viticole, la Méditerranée et l’Europe au siècle dernier (XXe), 2e éd. Montpellier: Publications de l’Université Paul-Valéry.
Gavignaud-Fontaine, G., & Michel H. (2003). Vignobles du Sud, XVIe-Xxe. Montpellier: Publications de l’Université Paul-Valéry.
Genieys, W. (dir.). (1998). Pôle Sud, 9.
IVCC. (1973). Institut des vins de consommation courante 1964–1972. Paris: ministère de l’Agriculture et du Développement rural.
Jacquet, O. (2009). Un siècle de construction du vignoble bourguignon. Les organisations vitivinicoles de 1884 aux AOC. Dijon: EUD.
Jobert, B., & Muller, P. (1987). L’Etat en action. Politiques publiques et corporatismes. Paris: Presses Universitaires de France.
Laferté, G. (2006). La Bourgogne et ses vins: image d’origine contrôlée. Paris: Belin.
Moser, L. (1960). Un nouveau vignoble. Cérons: Centre d’Études Techniques Agricoles de Cadillac-sur-Garonne.
Muller, P. (1984). Le technocrate et le paysan: essai sur la politique française de modernisation de l’agriculture de 1945 à nos jours. Paris: Éditions ouvrières.
Nicolas, F. (dir.). (2007). La grappe au poing: les socialistes languedociens et la question viticole: actes de la journée d’études du Comité Jean Jaurès de Béziers, 30 avril 2005. Nîmes: Champ Social.
ONIVINS. (1993). Réactualisation des statistiques sur la filière viti-vinicole. Paris: ministère de l’Agriculture.
ONIVINS. (1998). ONIVINS infos, 59.
ONIVINS. (2003). Vins de France: une culture en mouvement. Les vins français face à la concurrence internationale, colloque organisé à l’Assemblée nationale. Paris: ministère de l’Agriculture.
Pijassou, R. (1980). Un grand vignoble de qualité: le Médoc, vol. 2. Paris: Tallandier.
Réjalot, R. (2007). Les logiques du château: filière et modèle vitivinicole à Bordeaux, 1980–2003. Talence: Presses Universitaires de Bordeaux.
Roudié, P. (2014). Vignobles et vignerons du bordelais, 1850–1980, 3e éd. Bordeaux: Féret.
Smith, A., de Maillard, J., & Costa, O. (2007). Vin et politique. Bordeaux, la France, la mondialisation. Paris: Presses de Sciences Po.
Papers in Journals
Anonymous. (1965). Un exemple de collaboration efficace dans l’Entre-deux-Mers. Le journal des Appellations d’Origine, 22(242), 9.
Anonymous. (1973). La consommation des ménages a dépassé 575 milliards en 1972. Économie et statistique, 45, 35–38.
Anonymous. (1986). La RVI. 3640, 40.
Anonymous. (1993). L’Union girondine des vins de Bordeaux. 884, 3.
Anonymous. (1994). Les vins de pays: un faux débat. L’Union girondine des vins de Bordeaux, 894, 7.
Arnaud, C. (1991). Le vin et l’organisation commune de marché entre Paris et Bruxelles: un dialogue quelquefois difficile. Économie rurale, 204, 3–10.
Aubril, S. (1987). Bordeaux digère l’abondance. La RVI, 3649, 47.
Aubril, S. (1988). Les crues de la Gironde. La RVI, 3657, 47.
Bartoli, P., & Boulet, D. (1990). Conditions d’une approche en termes de régulation sectorielle. Le cas de la sphère viticole. Cahiers d’Économie et Sociologie Rurales, 17, 7–38.
Bernard, A. (1989). Approche de la recette viticole des vins de table en Languedoc- Roussillon. Revue de l’Économie Méridionale, 37(147), 51–67.
Boulet, D., Lacombe, P., Laporte, J.-P., & Lifran, R. (1976). La question viticole. Essai d’analyse économique, Montpellier: INRA.
Boyer, R. (2004). Pierre Bourdieu analyste du changement? Une lecture à la lumière de la théorie de la régulation. Couverture Orange CEPREMAP, 1, 40 p.
De Cantenac, P. (2005). Vins de pays. Le Languedoc s’envole. La RVF, 489, 65.
Garcia-Parpet, M.-F. (2004). Mondialisation des marchés et standards de production de vin: le modèle français en question. Presented at the first Congress of the Association Française de Sociologie, Paris, 17 p.
Garcia-Parpet, M.-F. (2005). Le salon des vins de Loire: convivialité et vocation internationale. Ethnologie Française, 32(2), 63–72.
Garcia-Parpet, M.-F. (2007). Mondialisation et transformations du monde viticole: processus de reclassement des vins du Languedoc-Roussillon. Sociétés contemporaines, 68, 37–57.
Gille, P. (1991). Grande distribution et filière vinicole. Revue de l’Économie Méridionale, 39(155–156), 103–122.
Hassenteufel, P. (1995). Les groupes d’intérêt dans l’action publique: l’Etat en interaction. Pouvoirs, 74, 155–167.
Hayward, J. (1996). Groupes d’intérêt, pluralisme et démocratie. Pouvoirs, 79, 5–19.
Hinnewinkel, J.-C. (2000). De nouvelles conditions de production pour les vins de Bordeaux. Méditerranée, 95(3–4), 91–94.
Hinnewinkel, J.-C. (2011). Cadillac, un noyau d’élite viticole du Bordelais. Les Cahiers du Bazadais, 51(174), 37–42.
Jacquet, O., & Laferté, G. (2006). Le contrôle républicain du marché. Annales. Histoire, Sciences Sociales, 61(5), 1147–1190.
Lacombe, R. (1983). La mécanisation de la vendange en France. Le passé, le présent, le rôle de la France dans l’avenir. Le Progrès Agricole et Viticole, 100(18), 454–456.
Laferté, G., & Jacquet, O. (2005). Appropriation et identification des territoires du vin: la lutte entre grands et petits propriétaires du ‘Corton’. Cahiers d’Économie et de Sociologie Rurales, 76, 9–27.
Muller, P. (1982). Comment les idées deviennent-elles politiques? La naissance d’une nouvelle idéologie paysanne en France, 1945–1965. Revue française de science politique, 32(1), 90–108.
Muller, P. (2000). La politique agricole française: l’État et les organisations professionnelles. Économie rurale, 33–39, 255–256.
Offerlé, M. (2008). Retour critique sur les répertoires de l’action collective (XVIIIe-XXIe siècles). Politix, 81, 181–202.
Roudié, P. (2001). Aspects de la viticulture mondiale au début du XXe siècle. Treballs de la Societat Catalana de Geografia, 51, 293–305.
Seniuk, A., & Strohl, J. (1996). Arrachage et replantation primés de 1985 à 1995: dix ans qui ont transformé la viticulture du Languedoc-Roussillon. Revue de l’Économie Méridionale, 44(176), 33–52.
Stanziani, A. (2003). La falsification du vin en France, 1880–1905: un cas de fraude agroalimentaire. Revue d’histoire moderne et contemporaine, 50(2), 154–186.
Tilly, C. (1984). Les origines du répertoire de l’action collective contemporaine en France et en Grande-Bretagne. Vingtième siècle. Revue d’Histoire, 4, 89–108.
Vincent, A. (1966). Le Syndicat du ‘Bordeaux’ se réorganise. Le journal des Appellations d’Origine, 23(257), 5.
Papers in Books
Dedieu, O. (2003). Le ‘rouge’ et le vin. Le socialisme à la conquête du vignoble héraultais (Gavignaud-Fontaine & Michel, pp. 623–645).
Muller, P. (2010). Secteur (Boussaguet & Jacquot, pp. 591–599).
University Papers and Documents on Line
Jacquet, O. (2004). De la Bourgogne à l’international: construction et promotion des normes d’appellation d’origine ou l’influence des syndicats professionnels locaux. Anthropology of Food, 3. Retrieved from http://aof.revues.org/index286.html.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Editor information
Editors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2019 The Author(s)
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Blancaneaux, R. (2019). Foundations for a Comparative Research Programme Between Wine Markets in the Twentieth Century. In: Conca Messina, S., Le Bras, S., Tedeschi, P., Vaquero Piñeiro, M. (eds) A History of Wine in Europe, 19th to 20th Centuries, Volume II. Palgrave Studies in Economic History. Palgrave Macmillan, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-27794-9_10
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-27794-9_10
Published:
Publisher Name: Palgrave Macmillan, Cham
Print ISBN: 978-3-030-27793-2
Online ISBN: 978-3-030-27794-9
eBook Packages: Economics and FinanceEconomics and Finance (R0)