Erosional processes along coastlines include: (1) the direct effects of hydraulic action, wedging, and cavitation by waves; (2) abrasion (corrasion), using sand, gravel, and larger rock fragments as tools; (3) attrition of the rock particles themselves during this abrasive action; (4) salt weathering or fretting; (5) erosion by organisms (bioerosion); and (6) chemical attack, or corrosion, which weakens the rocks and accelerates erosion. The rates of erosion by these processes are a function of the exposure of a coast to wave attack (wave energy and length of time of exposure), and the resistance of the materials to erosion and weathering.
Waves are the most dominant force causing coastal erosion. Ocean waves typically break at depths that range from about 1 to 1.5 times wave height. Because waves are seldom more than 6 m high, the depth of vigorous erosion by surf is usually limited to from 6 to 9 m below sea level. This theoretical limit is confirmed by observations of breakwaters...
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
Bibliography
Barnes, H.J., 1956. Cavitation as a geological agent. American Journal of Science, 254: 493–505.
Belov, A.P., Davies, P., and Williams, A.T, 1999. Mathematical modeling of basal coastal cliff erosion in uniform strata: a theoretical approach. Journal of Geology, 107: 99–109
Benumof, B.T., Storlazzi, C.D., Seymour, R.J., and Griggs, G.B., 2000. The relationship between incident wave energy and sea-cliff erosion rates. Journal of Coastal Research, 16: 1162–1178.
Bromley, R.G., 1978. Bioerosion of Bermuda reefs. Palaeogeography, Palaeoclimatology, Palaeoecology, 23:169–197.
Duperret, A., Genter, A., Mortimore, R.N., Delacourt, B., and De Pomerai, M.R., 2002. Coastal rock cliff erosion by collapse at Puys, France: The role of impervious marl seams within chalk of NW Europe. Journal of Coastal Research, 18: 52–61.
Gaillard, D.B.W., 1904. Wave Action in Relation to Engineering Structures. Washington, DC: US Army Corps of Engineers.
Kobayashi, N., Vidrine, J.C., Nairn, R.B., and Saloman, S.M., 1999. Erosion of frozen cliffs due to storm surge on Beaufort Sea coast. Journal of Coastal Research, 15: 332–344.
Kuenen, Ph. H., 1964. Experimental abrasion: surf action. Sedimentology, 3: 29–43.
Landon, R.E., 1930. An analysis of beach pebble abrasion and transportation. Journal of Geology, 38: 437–446.
Mottershead, D.N., 1989. Rates and patterns of bedrock denudation by coastal salt spray weathering: a seven-year record. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 14: 383–398.
Nott, J.F., 1990. The role of sub-aerial processes in sea cliff retreat— a southeast Australian example. Zeitschrift für Geomorphology, N. F., 34: 75–85.
Stephenson, W.J., and Kirk, R.M., 2000. Development of shore platforms on Kaikoura Peninsula, South Island, New Zealand. II: The role of sub-aerial weathering: Geomorphology, 32, 43–56.
Sunamura, T., 1977. A relationship between wave-induced cliff erosion and erosive force of waves. Journal of Geology, 85: 613–618.
Sunamura, T., 1992. Geomorphology of Rocky Coasts. Chichester: John Wiley and Sons.
Trenhaile, A.S., 1997. Coastal Dynamics and Landforms. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
Wellman, H.W., and Wilson, A.T., 1965. Salt weathering: a neglected geological erosive agent in coastal arid environments. Nature, 205: 1097–1098.
Cross-references
Bioerosion
Cliffs, Erosion Rates
Cliffs, Lithology versus Erosion Rates
Ice-Bordered Coasts
Notches
Rock Coast Processes
Shore Platforms
Wave-Dominated Coasts
Waves
Weathering in the Coastal zone
Editor information
Editors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2005 Springer
About this entry
Cite this entry
Rampino, M.R. (2005). Erosion Processes. In: Schwartz, M.L. (eds) Encyclopedia of Coastal Science. Encyclopedia of Earth Science Series. Springer, Dordrecht. https://doi.org/10.1007/1-4020-3880-1_139
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/1-4020-3880-1_139
Publisher Name: Springer, Dordrecht
Print ISBN: 978-1-4020-1903-6
Online ISBN: 978-1-4020-3880-8
eBook Packages: Earth and Environmental ScienceReference Module Physical and Materials ScienceReference Module Earth and Environmental Sciences