Original Research Article

Biomelanin Antioxidants in Cosmetics: Assessment Based on Inhibition of Lipid Peroxidation
K. Kalka^a, H. Mukhtar^a, A. Turowski-Wanke^b, H. Merk<sup>c

a</sup>Department of Dermatology, Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, USA;
^bClariant GmbH, Frankfurt, and
^cDepartment of Dermatology, Medizinische Fakultät der Rheinisch-Westfälischen Technischen Hochschule Aachen, Germany

Address of Corresponding Author

Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology 2000;13:143-149 (DOI: 10.1159/000029919)

  Key Words

• Biomelanins
• Antioxidants
• Lipid peroxidation
• Cosmetics

  Abstract

Acute adverse effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation in humans include sunburn, photosensitivity reactions and immunological suppression. Chronic exposure to UV light, particularly the UVB (290-320 nm) component of the UV radiation, and certain environmental chemicals increase the risk of nonmelanoma skin cancer and play a major role in cutaneous aging. The lipid peroxidation (LPO) of biomembranes, mediated by reactive oxygen species and free radicals, is one of the major causes of cellular damage induced by UV radiation and toxins. Antioxidants, such as vitamin E, vitamin C and melanins, are reactive oxygen and radical scavengers, thereby minimizing the light- and toxin-induced tissue destruction. We examined the influence of 8 biotechnically produced polyphenolic melanins on the LPO of microsomal membranes in comparison with -tocopherol, ascorbate and synthetic melanin. All biomelanins showed better inhibition of peroxidative damage than synthetic melanin. Three of the 8 tested drugs inhibited the LPO at least as effectively as vitamin C and vitamin E. The combination of the most effective biomelanin with both vitamin C and vitamin E resulted in greater LPO inhibition than caused by each agent alone. Our data show that biomelanins are potent inhibitors of the peroxidative destruction of biomembranes, indicating that these compounds may be useful antioxidative agents in cosmetic preparations.

Copyright © 2000 S. Karger AG, Basel

  Author Contacts

Hasan Mukhtar, PhD
Department of Dermatology, Case Western Reserve University
11100 Euclid Avenue, Cleveland, OH 44106 (USA)
Tel. +1 216 368 1127, Fax +1 216 368 0212
E-Mail hxm4@po.cwru.edu

  Article Information

Received: Received: Dec. 1, 1999
Accepted: Jan. 17, 2000
Number of Print Pages : 7
Number of Figures : 4, Number of Tables : 0, Number of References : 28