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A turbulent bore on a beach

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  20 April 2006

I. A. Svendsen
Affiliation:
Institute of Hydrodynamics and Hydraulic Engineering (ISVA), Technical University of Denmark, Building 115, DK-2800, Lyngby
P. A. Madsen
Affiliation:
Institute of Hydrodynamics and Hydraulic Engineering (ISVA), Technical University of Denmark, Building 115, DK-2800, Lyngby Present address: Danish Hydraulic Institute, Hørsholm DK-2970, Denmark.

Abstract

A theoretical model is developed giving a moderately detailed description of the flow in a turbulent bore, the velocity profiles, the shear stresses, the energy dissipation, etc. An analysis of the flow conditions at the toe of the turbulent front indicates significant differences from the usual description based on the finite-amplitude shallow-water equations, and it is shown that the present model gives a closer description of the actual physical conditions. Finally, numerical results are presented that illustrate how the model works, and test its validity on an example with known properties.

Type
Research Article
Copyright
© 1984 Cambridge University Press

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