doi:10.1016/S0029-8018(97)10014-2
Copyright © 1998 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved
Technical Note
Estimation of wave directional spreading in shallow water
V. Sanil Kumara, *, M. C. Deob, N. M. Ananda and P. Chandramohana
a Ocean Engineering Division, National Institute of Oceanography, Goa, India
b Civil Engineering Department, Indian Institute of Technology, Bombay, India
Received 4 April 1997;
accepted 18 June 1997.
Available online 23 November 1998.
References and further reading may be available for this article. To view references and further reading you must
purchase this article.
Abstract
This paper describes wave directional spreading in shallow water. Waves were measured for a period of 2 months using the Datawell directional waverider buoy at 15 m water depth on the east coast of India in the Bay of Bengal. The study also showed that in shallow water wave directional spreading was narrowest at peak frequency and widened towards lower and higher frequencies. The wind direction was found to deviate from the wave direction during most of the time. The unidirectional spectrum was found to be satisfactorily represented by Scott spectra.
Author Keywords: Directional spectra; Spreading function; Wave direction
Fig. 1. Variation of significant wave height and wind speed.
Fig. 2. Joint distribution of significant wave height and mean wave period.
Fig. 3. Variation of maximum wave height with respect to significant wave height.
Fig. 4. Correlation between principal wave direction and mean wave direction.
Fig. 5. Correlation between wave direction and wind direction.
Fig. 6. Correlation between mean spreading angle and directional width.
Fig. 7. Correlation between spreading parameters.
Fig. 8. Variation of spectral energy, wave direction, spread and spreading parameter with frequency.
Fig. 9.
Criteria for unimodal and bimodal condition.