Elsevier

Enzyme and Microbial Technology

Volume 37, Issue 4, 1 September 2005, Pages 386-394
Enzyme and Microbial Technology

Enzymatic treatment of flax fibre at the roving stage for production of wet-spun yarn

https://doi.org/10.1016/j.enzmictec.2004.10.007Get rights and content

Abstract

In the past few years, an acute shortage of good quality flax has compelled wet-spinners to seek alternative process steps for maintaining consistent quality of bleached yarns. The objective of the current investigation was to develop process recipes for the production of better quality yarn from lower grade fibre supplies. A laboratory method was developed to screen enzyme and chemical formulations, using hanks of fibre in the form of roving. The splitting of fibre, after treatments with ethylene diaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) at 40 °C and two enzyme formulations containing, pectinases, xylanase and laccase at 40 °C was monitored by a tensiometer to assess tenacity and extension under load. The treatments were compared with an industry standard caustic boil (4% NaOH) treatment at 95 °C. The duration for all process conditions was 3 h. The selected treatments were scaled up in a twin pilot scale unit using rovings, followed by H2O2 bleaching and wet-spinning. The resulting yarns were evaluated for tenacity and regularity. The recommended process steps were pre-treatment of fibre with EDTA followed by sequential treatments of a mixture of pectinases and xylanase enzymes and H2O2 bleaching. The results of this investigation have shown that laccase enzyme can be used for roving treatment to improve yarn regularity.

Introduction

The quality of dew-retted fibre has declined considerably in the past few years due to unfavorable weather conditions during the growing and retting of flax. During retting fungi and bacteria colonize the stem and degrade pectin by releasing pectinases and hemicellulases. Recently, wet-spinners in Europe have experienced difficulties in optimizing mechanical and chemical processing stages due to a wide range of variation in the quality of available fibre supplies [1]. The mechanical preparation stage consists of blending lines for the hackled fibres, followed by passing through five drawing stages of pin frames to prepare a homogeneous sliver and also to remove short fibres and residual woody tissues. The processed fibres are wound on to plastic bobbins, which is known as roving. The primary objective of chemical treatment of the fibre at the roving stage is to achieve a degree of separation and breakdown of fibre bundles which is sufficient to permit the wet-spinning process, whilst maintaining structural integrity of the roving under tension [2]. During the spinning operation, either insufficient breakdown of fibre due to under treatment, or over-treatment leading to low tensile strength and excessive breakdown will significantly reduce yarn tenacity and regularity. The conventional process steps, consisting of three or four chemical treatments need to be adjusted to respond to available fibre supply [3].

Sharma [4] reported the initial work on the use of polysaccharide degrading enzymes for scouring dew-retted flax rovings and reviews on the role of enzymes for processing flax have been published [5]. The quality of fibre during the mid 1980's was relatively consistent from year to year and wet-spinners probably did not need to use enzymes for processing dew-retted fibre, as the mechanical and chemical processes provided flexibility in the production of a good quality yarn. However, fibre quality from the 2000 crop onwards has declined considerably [1]. Consequently, the industry expressed the need for a more controllable processing system for wet-spinning flax. The screening of treatment formulations needs to be carried out using a reliable laboratory method and for enzymatic treatments, such practical experience does not yet exist. To date there has been little study of the effects of such processes on fibre tenacity, extension and rupture under load. Any attempt to incorporate a novel rove treatment process can only be assessed on the basis of full-scale spinning trials; the results may subsequently reveal correlation with laboratory test data. The aim of this investigation was to develop process recipes, which can be used for spinning high quality yarn using poor to medium grade fibres.

Section snippets

Materials

The batches of fibre used in this investigation were supplied by Tere de Lin (TDL), Normandy in France and originated from flax cultivar Belinka grown and dew-retted in 2000. Standard agronomic practices were adopted during the growing and dew-retting of flax. However, dry spells encountered during the early stage of plant development and flowering resulted in plants of variable maturity. The pulled flax stems were dew-retted in the field for 6–7 weeks, and dry weather conditions during the

Physical assessments

The plant maturity score for straw which resulted in the 100 and 300 fibre samples after retting and processing, was immature compared to an optimum score for 200 and 400 samples (Table 1). The degree of retting score for straw samples of 100 and 200 batches was optimum, in contrast to over-retted scores for 300 and 400 samples. Physical characteristics of the four roving samples are presented in Table 1. Fibre fineness values for 100–400 samples ranged from 25.6 to 29.75 dtex and roving 100,

Discussion

Subjective assessments of plant maturity and degree of retting were the basis for grading the straw batches before processing by the fibre producer (TDL). The subjective scores of the two parameters did not agree with the results of analyses of the fibre samples obtained after scutching and hackling, suggesting that the assessment keys used by the fibre producer may not be adequate and require more objective methods, similar to the protocols reported by Sharma and Faughey [13] for assessing

Acknowledgements

We wish to thank Mr. T. Goujon, TDL, France for supplying the fibre samples and assessment scores for plant maturity and degree of retting; Mr. G. Rondi and Ms. R. Suardi of LCN, Italy for the supply of commercial roving and carrying out spinning trials, Mr. J. Dawson, Fergusons Irish Linen, UK, and other partners involved in the project. The project has been funded by EU, BRITE-EURAM, BE97-4744.

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