Abstract
The present review showed the importance of using the differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) in the evaluation of the hair damage. Many hair-straightening treatments necessarily involve a heating process, which even at low temperatures can cause damage to hair. Several researches demonstrated the influence of the exposure to heat in various types of hair, correlating it with the increase in the temperature. In this sense, the importance of this research is in raising awareness to the consumers and professionals (cosmetic formulators, researchers, hair stylists and dermatologists) about the issues of employing heat in the modification of the hair. To this, the present review refers to a broad and updated bibliographic collection comprising several studies related to the investigation of the thermal events that occur in the hair under heating until 300 °C, including the denaturation of the α-keratin, employing DSC. This protein forms a crystalline structure in the hair cortex and provides the hair mechanical properties such as strength and elasticity. But once denatured, the damage done to the hair may be irreversible. However, studies related to thermal decomposition of this protein are necessary due to the increased use of thermal hair styling tools, which can be associated, or not, with chemical treatments. Yet, in the literature, few reviews on this important tool of characterization and evaluation in hair samples are available. Thus, additionally, the objective of this work is to support researchers to direct the study with most feasible experimental conditions to achieve more potent results employing DSC.
Similar content being viewed by others
References
Robbins CR. Chemical and physical behavior of human hair. 3rd ed. New York: Springer; 1994.
Robbins CR. Chemical and physical behavior of human hair. 4th ed. New York: Springer; 2002.
Feughelman MJ. Role of the microfibrils in the mechanical-properties of alpha-keratins. J Macromol Sci B. 1979;16(1):155.
Zahn H. Die Fasern in der makromolekularen Chemie. Lenzinger Ber. 1977;42:19–34.
Yoo EJ. Trichology. 1st ed. Seoul: Kwangmyong Publishing; 2002.
Kim SR. Clothing materials. 3rd ed. Seoul: Kyomoonsa; 2000.
Lee JO. Hair science. 1st ed. Seoul: Hyung-Seul Publishing Company; 2004.
Spei M, Holzem R. Thermoanalytical investigations of extended and annealed keratins. Colloid Polym Sci. 1987;265:965–70.
Istrate D. Ph.D. Thesis, RWTH Aachen, Germany, 2011.
Wortmann FJ, Springob C, Sendelbach G. Investigations of cosmetically treated human hair by differential scanning calorimetry in water. J Cosmet Sci. 2002;53:219–28.
Wortmann FJ, Deutz H. Thermal analysis of ortho- and para-cortical cells isolated from wool fibers. J Appl Polym Sci. 1998;68:1991–5.
Cao J, Leroy F. Depression of the melting temperature by moisture for alpha-form crystallites in human hair keratin. Biopolymers. 2005;77:38–43.
Popescu C, Gummer C. DSC of human hair: A tool for claim support or incorrect data analysis? Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016;38:433–9.
Cao J, Joko K, Cook JR. DSC studies of the melting behavior of alpha-form crystallites in wool keratin. Text Res J. 1997;67:117.
Milczarek P, Zielinski M, Garcia ML. The mechanism and stability of thermal transitions in hair keratin. Colloid Polym Sci. 1992;270:1106–15.
Schwenker RF, Dusenbury JH. Differential thermal analysis of protein fibers. Text Res J. 1960;30:800–1.
Felix WD, McDowall MA, Eyring H. The differential thermal analysis of natural and modified wool and mohair. Text Res J. 1963;33:465–71.
Crighton JS, Happey F. Differential thermal analysis of keratin and related protein fibers. In: Symposium on fibrous proteins, New York, 1968.
Crighton JS, Hole ER. The effect of heat on wools: thermogravimetry of keratin fibres. In: 5th IWTRC, Aachen, Germany, 1976.
Crighton JS, Hole ER. A study of wool in aqueous media by high pressure differential analysis. In: 7th IWTRC, Tokyo, Japan, 1985.
Humphries WT, Miller DL, Wildnauer RH. The thermomechanical analysis of natural and chemically modified human hair. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1972;23:359–70.
Leroy F, Franbourg A, Lévêque JL. Thermoanalytical investigations of reduced hair. In: 8th International hair science symposium of the German Wool Research Institute, Kiel, Germany, 1992.
Monteiro VF, Maciel AP, Longo E. Thermal analysis of caucasian human hair. J Therm Anal Calorim. 2005;79:289–93.
Chandrashekara MN, Ranganathaiah C. Chemical and photochemical degradation of human hair: a free-volume microprobe study. J Photochem Photob B. 2010;101:286–94.
Marsh JM, Clarke CJ, Meinert K, Dahlgren RM. High pressure differential scanning calorimetry of colorant products. J Cosmet Sci. 2007;58:621–7.
Dussaud A, Fieschi-Corso L. Influence of functionalized silicones on hair fiber–fiber interactions and on the relationship with the macroscopic behavior of hair assembly. J Cosmet Sci. 2009;60:261–71.
Wortmann FJ, Deutz H. Characterizing keratins using high-pressure differential scanning calorimetry (HPDSC). J Appl Polym Sci. 1993;48:137–50.
Guthrie JT, Kazlauciunas A, Rongong L, Rush S. The characterization of treated and dyed hair. Dyes Pigment. 1995;29:23–44.
Colenci AVP. Estudo de uma formulação contendo o biopolímero quitosana sobre a fibra capilar caucasiana. Thesis. Universidade de São Paulo, São Carlos, Brazil, 2007.
Belletti KMS, Feferman IH, Mendes TRO, Piaceski AD, Monteiro VF, Carre’o NLV, Valentini A, Leite ER, Longo E. Evaluation of hair fiber hydration by differential scanning calorimetry, gas chromatography and sensory analysis. J Cosmet Sci. 2003;54:527–35.
Benaiges A, Fernández E, Martínez-Teipel B, Armengol R, Barba C, Coderch L. Hair efficacy of botanical extracts. J Appl Polym Sci. 2013;128:861–8.
Gama RM, Balogh TS, França S, Sá Dias TC, Bedin V, Baby AR, Matos JR, Velasco MVR. Thermal analysis of hair treated with oxidative hair dye under influence of conditioners agents. J Therm Anal Calorim. 2011;106:399–405.
Lima CRRC. Caracterização físico-química e analítica de fibras capilares e ingredientes cosméticos para proteção. Thesis, Universidade de São Paulo, São Paulo, Brazil, 2016.
Cao J. Melting study of the a-form crystallites in human hair keratin by DSC. Thermochim Acta. 1999;335:5–9.
Éhen ZS, Novák CS, Sztatisz J, Bene O. Thermal characterization of hair using TG-MS combined thermoanalytical technique. J Therm Anal Calorim. 2004;78:427–40.
Wortmann FJ, Popescu G, Sendelbach G. Effects of reduction on the denaturation kinetics the human hair. Biopolymer. 2008;89:600–5.
Istrate D, Popescu C, Moller M. Non-isothermal kinetics of hard a-keratin thermal denaturation. Macromol Biosci. 2009;9:805–12.
Rigoletto R, Karolak J, Koelmel D. Quantification of fiber fragmentation of hair through combing as a measure of thermal protection. J Cosmet Sci. 2009;60:278–9.
Zhou Y, Rigoletto R, Koelmel D, Zhang G, Gillece TW, Foltis L, Moore DJ, Qu X, Sun C. The effect of various cosmetic pretreatments on protecting hair from thermal damage by hot flat ironing. J Cosmet Sci. 2011;62:265–82.
Brebu M, Spiridon I. Thermal degradation of keratin waste. J Anal Appl Pyrol. 2011;91:288–95.
Gama RM, Baby AR, Velasco MVR. In vitro methodologies to evaluate the effects of hair care products on hair fiber. Cosmetics. 2017;4:2–10.
Wortmann FJ, Wortmann G, Marsh J, Meinert K. Thermal denaturation and structural changes of α-helical proteins in keratins. J Struct Biol. 2012;177:553–60.
Splinter R, van Herwaarden AW, Iervolino E, Vanden Poel G, Istrate D, Sarro PM. Analyzing protein denaturation using fast differential scanning calorimetry. Proc Eng. 2012;47:140–3.
Istrate D, Popescu C, Rafik ME, Möller M. The effect of pH on the thermal stability of fibrous hard alpha-keratins. Polym Degrad Stab. 2013;98:542–9.
Hartung C, Kortemeier U, Westerholt U, Winter P, Dahl V, Trambitas A, Langer S, Schwab P, Jha B. T-shaped siloxane microemulsion for improved hair conditioning and protection. Cosmet Toilet. 2013;123:160–8.
Sá Dias TC. Avaliação in vitro do efeito de diferentes processos de Alisamento químico/térmico na fibra capilar. Thesis, Universidade de São Paulo, São Paulo, Brazil, 2015.
Lima CRRC, Almeida MM, Velasco MVR, Matos JR. Thermoanalytical characterization study of hair from different ethnicities. J Therm Anal Calorim. 2016;123:2321–8.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Rights and permissions
About this article
Cite this article
Lima, C.R.R.d., Machado, L.D.B., Velasco, M.V.R. et al. DSC measurements applied to hair studies. J Therm Anal Calorim 132, 1429–1437 (2018). https://doi.org/10.1007/s10973-018-7095-0
Received:
Accepted:
Published:
Issue Date:
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s10973-018-7095-0