Abstract
The trend in developing sunscreens with continuously larger SPF numbers resulted in using increased amount of UV filters, while in the meantime, there is a wish to reduce the concentration of UV filters in new sunscreen developments. This paradox of achieving higher SPF values while using smaller amounts of UV filters explains the high interest in boosting the performance of the UV filter combination. Boosting the photoprotection is possible either by optimizing the efficacy of the UV-absorbing system or by improving the film-forming properties of the product during spreading. For achieving optimum UV protection with reduced amount of UV filters, an appropriate UV filter mixture must be at first selected. This includes the combination of UVB- and UVA-absorbing molecules, the consideration of the photostability of the UV filters individually and in combination, as well as the synergy of water- and oil-dispersed UV filters. Further, excipients such as scattering particles can be added to the sunscreen formulation to increase the efficiency of the UV filter system by the increase of the optical path length. As a prerequisite for performance, the UV filters must be uniformly dispersed and/or solved at first in the emulsion and then in the applied sunscreen film on the skin to offer their full UV protection competence. Many film formers are found in the market and are supposed to perform by improving the film forming and the distribution of the UV molecules on the skin. Also the sunscreen vehicle and viscosity were shown to impact the film thickness distribution and subsequently the delivered UV protection. Boosting the photoprotection requires the consideration of these different aspects.
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Acknowledgments
I would like to thank especially Uli Osterwalder of BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH for his great support and his confidence in me, Bernd Herzog and Marcel Schnyder of BASF Grenzach GmbH for their valuable input, and Georgios Imanidis of the Institute of Pharmaceutical Technology, School of Life Sciences, University of Applied Sciences Northwestern, Switzerland, for the fruitful discussions.
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Sohn, M. (2016). UV Booster and Photoprotection. In: Wang, S., Lim, H. (eds) Principles and Practice of Photoprotection. Adis, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-29382-0_13
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-29382-0_13
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